Flat-felled Seams With Gathers

One thing I thought for many years was that it is impossible to sew a bodice to a skirt without

1. Lining the bodice so that you can cover the gathers and raw edges.
2. Serging the bodice so that you can finish those raw edges nicely.
3. Using pinking shears or zig-zags.

I mean, you just can't do a French seam with gathers!

However, a few years ago, I realized that you CAN do gathers and a flat-felled seam with lightweight to medium weight fabrics.


If your skirt and bodice are not constructed, then you need to do that. This is only a tutorial on how to connect them with a flat-felled seam.


Step 1:

With WRONG sides together, match the side seams of the bodice with the
side seams of the skirt. Using a 5/8" seam allowance, stitch them together. Remember, you want the seam on the outside of the garment.


Don't forget to back stitch!








This is what it should look like when you're done sewing it. You need a full 5/8" to do this so make sure you get it.












Step 2:

Trim the gathers and the lining piece closest to the gathers (if you have a lining) The very top layer of bodice that will be seen needs to be left alone. If you cut that, you'll ruin your garment so think about what you're cutting before you cut, and read all directions before you cut.








I hope the picture is clear. I'm trimming the gathers and the lining fabric down to 1/8".

Take your time, don't stress. This isn't difficult, but if you rush, you're likely to snip something you shouldn't so just relax and trim.

Use sharp scissors and hold the skirt and upper layer out of the way with your index finger and thumb.





That's what it should look like when the garment is laying flat.

















Step 3:

Fold the raw edge into the seam and press. If you need better pictures of how to do this, see the Flat-felled Seam tutorial.

I don't always press as I sew, but if I am doing a flat-felled on a curve (men's sleeves) or over gathers, I always press.

Take your time, don't burn your fingers, and just fold and press. Try to pull the gathers away as you do so you don't flatten them when you stitch it down.

Step 3:

Stitch the folded edge onto the skirt right next to that folded edge. Go slow, pull the gathers out of the way, but don't pull so much that you roll the seam. Keep everything flat.

Take your time for a straight seam.

You won't regret it!

Voila! One waist sewn onto the skirt!

And there is the lovely seam from the inside of the garment. Isn't it nice!