Bias- The diagonal across the cross and straight grains of fabric. The bias of fabric is stretchy whereas the straight grain is not and the cross grain barely stretches.
Cross Grain- The threads of the fabric that runs parallel to the cut edge of the fabric as it comes off the bolt.
Grain- When fabric is woven there are threads that run parallel to the selvedge and threads that run perpendicular to the selvedge. These are referred to as the grain of fabric.
Nap- A fabric with nap looks different from different angles. The fabric seems lighter or darker depending on if you are smoothing it "with the nap" or "against the nap". Velvet, velour, and corduroy fabric are common and primary examples of fabric with nap. When cutting out fabric the with nap, you must cut all pieces in the same direction or it will look like you used two different pieces of fabric. Most pattern companies print two different layouts-- one for nap and one for without nap. Fabric with a one way design also needs the "with nap" cutting layout.
Pattern Notches- The little triangles (sometimes double or triple triangles) on commercial patterns. These are used to help match up pieces as you're sewing. For the record, except for princess seams and sleeves with no gathers, I don't usually use them.
Right Side of the Fabric- The side of the fabric intended to show.
Seam Allowance- The extra fabric between the seam and the cut edge of the fabric. Commercial patterns usually have a 5/8" seam allowance. Quilts traditionally use a 1/4" seam allowance.
Selvage- The long woven edges of fabric created by the manufacturer in the manufacturing process. It is often white and printed with colored dots showing the colors in the print on quilting and calico cottons. On other fabrics it is often the same color as the fabric and it isn't as discernable. It is always easy to find on the fabric though. If you look at the edge that the fabric store cut, the selvedge is going to be perpendicular to that.
Straight Grain- The threads in the fabric that run parallel to the selvedge.
Top stitch- This is stitching, usually 1/8-1/4" from the edge of the fabric/seam both as decorative stitching and to add strength to the garment. You often find it on the edges of collars, waistbands, and button plackets.
Under stitch- To under stitch a garment, you stitch a facing or lining to the seam allowance about 1/8" away from the seam. This is never done on the outside of the garment and should not show when worn.
Wrong Side of the Fabric- The side of the fabric not intended to show. It is usually inside the garment, pillow, quilt, or project. Occasionally quilters will deliberately use the wrong side of the fabric to get the exact hue and shade of a fabric needed for a project, but that isn't common.
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The art of creating garments that suit not only a personality but a way of life is all but lost in our homogenous society. We at the Pattern Piece think it is time that women reclaim the lost heritage of our grandmothers and great grandmothers and celebrate the beauty of handmade garments and accessories. Whether sewn, crocheted, knitted, smocked, embroidered, or commercially purchased and embellished, the mission of the Pattern Piece is to help aid women in learning to create garments that are both modest and beautiful.
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