These jumpers are easy to make once you've mastered a little trick that can be confusing. I used to do this the hard way by connecting lined bodice fronts to lined bodice backs at the shoulder, tucking in the extra seam allowance, hand whipping down, and always hating how the shoulder looked. Then I found this method and I never looked back.
This tutorial assumes that you have a pattern and that you've already cut it out. If you do not have a pattern, please check the patterns and see if I've uploaded one for you to download. Also, if you need help with cutting, you'll need to do a search for that too. This is simply how to construct a lined bodice where front and back are cut on the fold and the jumper pulls over the head.
Let's get started. First, your bodice pieces... get them ready!
Step One:
With right sides (pretty side) facing (I call it making them 'kiss'... you don't kiss with the back of your head!), match the bodice front to the bodice back at the shoulder seams. You should have TWO front/back combos ready to sew.Using the appropriate seam allowance for your pattern (standard commercial patterns are usually 5/8") sew your shoulder seams. Don't forget to backstitch when you start and stop. It really does help keep your garment together through hard wear and play.
Tip: (this isn't a necessary step. This is just something I do that saves me time and mess)I do what quilters call "Chain piecing". Obviously for sewing it's "Chain sewing" and is much more healthy than chain smoking-- just in case you weren't sure about that little fact. Start sewing one shoulder. Back stitch. Sew to the end of that shoulder. Back stitch. Push the next shoulder up next to the edge of the first shoulder's end. Let the presser foot skip the space and start sewing shoulder two. Back stitch. Pick up the next bodice set and push the first shoulder to the edge again. Repeat. When you're done, all four shoulder sections will be connected with a tiny piece of thread. Simply snip between the fabric pieces and voila. You just saved a bunch of thread and a lot of stopping and starting!
Step 2: Press open the seams if that floats your boat. Just so you know, you can make a nice jumper that your little girl (or you!) will wear for as long as it fits and the fabric lasts without pressing every seam as you finish. Now, it is easier for some people to keep seams lined up properly with good pressing and a pin or two, but in my opinion, the point is to make the garment and wear it, so if you're the kind of person who will get bogged down and never finish the garment, just skip the pressing thing. I pressed for this tutorial to make it easier for you to see and since I was at the ironing board anyway.
Now, with right sides together (making it kiss), lay the bodice back to bodice back, and front to front, matching neckline and armholes.If you are a person who has declared their "pin-dependence" pin around the neckline making sure your shoulder seams meet up where they should.
Stitch (with your appropriate seam allowance) around the neckline. It'll be a nice circle when you're done.
Isn't it pretty? See, it's not difficult! Yet. Just kidding, none of it is difficult once you've done it once. The first time on this jumper seems trickier than it really is, so you'll be very proud of yourself once you've finished this first one. It'll seem (and seam!) like you've conquered an incredibly complicated garment construction technique!Step 3:
Cut half of that seam allowance off. Just take your scissors, and a deep breath, and cut half away. Toss in the garbage. I know, it was a lot of hard work, but that's ok. You're going to be glad you did when it's over.
And there you have it! One cut away neckline. Now, you want to cut little V's in your neckline. I do this by folding the fabric and snipping, but most people feel a bit intimidated doing that. So, do whatever is comfortable. Just make sure you cut a V approximately every inch or so. Then, between those V's clip the fabric. This helps keep the neckline nice and flat when you turn and press. You won't regret it. I promise.
Step 4:Now, turn the garment right side out by flipping the lining inside. This sounds more complicated than it is. Just make sure you see the "pretty side" on both the top and bottom and have all the "wrong side" inside the garment.
I left half unturned in this picture to show you what I mean.
Voila! Isn't it pretty? Now again, you don't HAVE to press this. Really, the garment is completely wearable if you sew the whole thing without pressing, and usually, only an accomplished seamstress can tell if it's been pressed during construction after a few washings anyway. (Even then, not necessarily!)However, if I'm making the garment, this is one place I almost always press while I'm sewing. It just makes it easier and it looks so nice. So, if you can't stand to think about looking at your iron, don't bother, but otherwise, I recommend a nice pressing (and a burst of steam or two is always nice too).
As you can see, I pressed and all is lovely.Now, look closely though. See the raw edges of the shoulders? That's how it's supposed to be. Don't panic yet. It's ok. You want those raw edges.
For now.
The next step is completely optional. I always like to under stitch my necklines. I think it really gives a nice finish to the garment, keeps the lining from popping to the front, and making it look sloppy.
Step 6: Under stitching (optional)
To edge stitch, you need your lining on your right hand side, and the bodice on the left. Flip your seam to the right so that you'll be stitching that seam down. Stitch 1/8" away from the seam on the lining side of the garment.When you are done, press again. It's not necessary, but if your iron is already hot, why not?
Hee hee
Step 7:Here is where things get dicey for some people. Relax, don't stress. It's just a jumper bodice. You can do this.
Before I show you what you're going to do, I'm going to tell you. The right sides (of both bodice and lining) must be sewn together in that armhole. So, you're going to take them, wrap them around the other armhole, and stitch them with right sides together (kissing) and the rest of the bodice tucked into that narrow spot. Got that? Here we go!
Do you see how I have the right side of the fabric facing up? Do you see how I have the entire bodice laying in the middle of that shoulder seam area? Do you see the two armholes? Those were ONE SIDE of the jumper before I did this.I just opened it up, laid everything in the middle, and now I'm going to fold one side over the other keeping all that stuff tucked in there. You have to be careful not to sew that stuff that's tucked in there.
You'll sew the same seam allowance that you've been using.
See, all folded nicely.You'll stitch around that curve ONLY. Do not stitch down the straight edge. Just around the armhole curve.
And, it looks like this!Next you want to trim and clip just like you did the neckline. Cut half the seam allowance off, cut V's into the curves, clip between the V's, and voila!
Now you're ready for the next step
Step 8:
This is the hardest part to explain and the easiest part to do! All you need to do is turn this right side out. You just pull one side through that shoulder area, and to the other. Voila. However, it looks like it won't do it. It looks like it won't work. I promise you; it will. You may want to tuck in the side seam/bottom to make it easier.
Just pull through! It really is as easy as it sounds. It looks impossible, but it isn't.
Can you see the armhole now?That's all you need!
Tip:
Remember how I warned against catching any of that inside stuff in the seam? This is what happens. I did it to show you what you don't want to do. It was very deliberate and only for instructional purposes. I would never make such a silly mistake. Nope. Not me. (I refuse a polygraph on grounds that it might look smug... yeah. Smug.)
Step 9:
Press this puppy within an inch of its life. Seriously. Then, repeat the previous step with the other side. Like this.
Step 10: Voila! It's all turned and ready to be pressed. See what I mean about it looking more complicated than it is. If you just follow directions and don't overthink, you'll have your bodice ready to finish!
So, what you're going to do after you press is make the side seams meet (kiss) right sides together and sew with your pattern's seam allowance.
Tip:
When you stitch over that seam, back stitch. That is one place where jumpers tend to pop their stitches over time. If you back stitch (particularly if you don't want to topstitch), it'll help reinforce that seam.
Step 11:
Press that side seam open, then fold the lining inside and press flat.
This brings you to the point where you have to make a decision about topstitching.
There are three schools of thought re: topstitching.
1. You topstitch everything within an inch of its life. This often makes for a very strong garment (all that stitching reinforces things)
2. You topstitch nothing but tailored shirts and suits.
3. You are selective in picking when you use this technique.
Normally, I don't like topstitching on this particular jumper style. It is customary to topstitch these styles of jumpers, but even the original pattern I used didn't recommend it. It has a cleaner finish without the topstitching.However, in order to show how I do it, I did choose to do it this time so that you could see that now is when you do it if you want it!
Congratulations! You're done!
Now you (and by that I mean me) have to decide what to do for a skirt! Are you going to do a paneled skirt? A plain skirt? Do you want to add an inset apron? Do you want an A-line? Gathers? Tiers?
Oh the possibilities!
Isn't it cute? And, with all that kissing you can honestly say your garment was made with love.
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